July 28
Explore Gorongosa Camp, Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique
The camp at Explore Gorongosa sits along a serpentine river bed that draws in an incredible array of birds. antelope, primates, and enormous crocodiles. This experience showed us another side to Gorongosa National Park. We had spent most of our time in the dry savanna and now we had the chance to experience some very different bird life. Our day began with Scottish-South African-Zimbabwean guide Jeff who took us on a foot safari around the camp along with a Jinga an armed scout (askari) with the Park.
Ed Wilson returned to Chitengo last night. I made the trip with him which turned into a nice night game drive. We didn’t see a whole lot but did come across some oribi, bush pig, and several African hare. The cool night air in the open land cruiser topped off our fireside meal at the Explore Gorongosa Camp.
The morning walk with our Life on Earth team sans Ed, began with a baboon spider rising from its pit trap. We realized one could spend a lifetime studying the variety of strategies predators use in such a biodiverse place. The baboon spider is known as a trap-door spider that creates a silk-lined burrow dug with its pedipalps, chelicerae, and fangs. Most of the world knows them as tarantulas but in the bush of Africa they are called the baboon spider. Hairy like the local primates? This must be the connection. This nocturnal sit-and-wait predator was coaxed out of his burrow with a stick of dried grass. They normally ambush their prey and drag them below. Fortunately, our guide Jeff was not taken below.
During lunch we discovered an African Scops Owl watching over. They are usually found out in South African forests and here we were with our nocturnal friend snoozing on a branch above our table. He/she would occasionally open an eye to see what was happening and then nod off again. The feather color and pattern blended perfectly with the surrounding bark. The stories of evolutionary adaptation in plants and animals are endless here. Lots to share for Life on Earth.
Bird activity around camp is incredibly diverse. It is quite obvious why this location is such a top draw for birders. The lapwings and forest guinea fowl forage along the streambed. Yellow-billed storks sit high in the trees. Twin spots flit on low branches and drop to the leaf litter. Several kingfishers (brown-headed, grey-headed, and pygmy) perch on extended branches looking for prey below in the water or grass. The fish eagle soars down from a high perch and returns with a catfish. This is Gorongosa.
The afternoon took us out to the floodplain searching for more animals for story ideas, biology content, and the Encyclopedia of Life Gorongosa Field Guide. We once again saw lots of Waterbuck. They have definitely been the most prolific antelope in the region. It will be interesting to discover why this particular species is so successful in the region.
We took a walk in a clear swath surrounded by tall grass just as the sun was setting. The armed Jinga walked ahead of us as we were walking to locate Cape Buffalo. We found some buffalo dung in the area but no buffalo. The Reedbuck below was spotted nearby in the last light of the fading day.
Late dusk brought nightjar birds soaring and diving for insects flying near us. Some crowned-cranes sounded their waelful call and flew into the fading sunlight to find a roost for the night. Driving back to camp didn’t show much except Impala, Oribi, Waterbuck, and a few Swamp Mongeese we watched foraging along the shore.
The evening held another wonderful feast by our camp hosts at Explore Gorongosa. Rob, Claire, Neil, Jeff, and Kathy made sure we were all taken care of. Toasts were made for the future of Africa and Life on Earth. Cheers.
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